The Magic of Abruzzo Blog
"We travel not to escape life but for life not to escape us." Anonymous
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Transhumance is an ancient tradition, which has been happening over many centuries in the Abruzzo region of Italy. It is the seasonal migration of sheep flocks and shepherds who move from pastures located in the mountain areas during the summer, to the plains, during the winter, then in May, they return home. These journeys from the mountains of Abruzzo, across valleys, villages, and small towns, up to the plains of Puglia proved many times to be challenging. These shepherds travelled during the day along the sheep tracks or grassy paths for miles at a time. Then as darkness falls, they would settle into a specific place for the night. The shepherds would eat bread and ricotta and drink wine, then after dinner would carve wood or write their thoughts on rocks. The shepherd would sleep in a cave or a small shed while the sheep either shared the cave or slept in a fenced meadow. The shepherd would sleep ‘with one eye open’ while the dogs watched over the sheep. There was plenty of danger from native animals such as snakes and wolves. The Maremma Sheepdog or Cane da Pastore Abruzzese are the indigenous, big white guard dogs used for looking after the sheep. When you see them all together it is difficult to tell the difference between the dogs and the sheep. These dogs have become famous around the world especially after the film Oddball showed in 2015. Though the tradition of transhumance became redundant over 50 years ago, some shepherds still move their sheep in a similar way, except that the distance is much shorter and there are fewer sheep. The modern shepherds now transport their sheep in trucks. In the spring around May, there are still some shepherds who bring their sheep literally past our Bed and Breakfast from the countryside below up to the mountain behind our house where they can find fresh and aromatic grasses. There is a shepherd that we know in Abruzzo, who is trying to preserve this ancient tradition and will take brave adventurers on the four-day journey, sleeping in tents and camping along the way. As the poet, Gabriele D'Annunzio writes in the poem, "I pastori": “September, let's go. It is time to migrate.” Contact us if you’d like to experience the transhumance in Abruzzo, or if you would like to visit a nearby sheep farm to see how the famous Pecorino, mozzarella, and ricotta cheeses are made.
Come to taste the farm to table slow food at one of the agriturismos or sample farm products at the local open-air market. Call +39 3888 272982 for English or +39 339 466 4901 for Italian. Or simply email us with your questions to [email protected] Comments are closed.
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About the authorThis blog is curated by Margaret Gigliotti, B&B owner, teacher, explorer, wine drinker and creative writer. Looking for ideas of places to visit in Abruzzo. Download our free guide of the best places most people miss.
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